lun 13 sep 2010
Altuzarra - Spring/Summer 2011
13 09 2010Although he is only on his 4th collection, Joseph Altuzarra seems to be one of those carrying the hopes of the fashion world. At 27, the young Altuzarra creates clothes for an uncompromising femininity, destined to win over Roitfeld and Co.

At Altuzarra, the Cruella black of last winter has been replaced by satin-finished whites that well serve the designer's intentions of modernity. This season, by mixing techno influences with 60s notions, Tom Ford heritage and Claude Montana references, his idea of modernity comes to life in the heart of his collection.
These different influences have lead the young designer to give birth to an incisive wardrobe of clean lines that leave the skin visible in unexpected ways, whereas his body-conscious creations take on an urban tribal feel by the addition of pieces of python accentuating feminine curves.
Also noteworthy is that Altuzarra seems to love accentuating the sensuality of his monochromatic ensembles - e.g., neo trench, ultra sexy suits - by belting them with a line of fluorescent color, and by using reptilian printed bands as alluring details.
Towards the end of the show, the electric white moved over for a deep blue that, still functioning in a deconstructionist mode, reveals the models' slender bodies in increasingly audacious manner.

As for his stylistic experimentations, the conical breasts may not be easy to wear, but the precious-leather patchwork dresses (with their delicately exotic aura) would be a dream to slip into; they are far from clichés and close to that modernity that Altuzarra holds so dear to his heart.
The vertiginous low cuts and other immodest asymmetries may lead one to believe that the Altuzarra girl will not be able to descend from her catwalk, but some creations that are a bit less extreme in their sexiness seem well-poised to win over the new decade.
Less transcending than the preceding collection, this show proved nonetheless that Joesph Altuzarra is far from finished redefining the idea of modernity.
Click here to see the whole collection: http://www.style.com/S2011RTW-ALTZRRA