Burberry Prorsum - Spring/Summer 2011

Televised live around the world, admired by la crème de la crème of the VIPs in the room, boosted by the announcement of a new distribution policy (consisting of taking orders directly after the show), the Burberry Prorsum show was without a doubt the event of London's fashion week. It remains to be seen if the contents of the collection will be equal to the media hype surrounding the show.

Christopher Bailey, possessing a consequential heritage at Burberry, has apparently decided to exploit a different facet of the house with each new collection. After having reinterpreted aviator and other bomber jackets for this winter (already a part of the label's lineage), today he has turned his attention to the biker jacket, conceived by Thomas Burberry in 1900.

However, although last season's shearling models may have had a resounding impact on the fashion world (particularly thanks to their authentic yet modern look), the same cannot necessarily be said for the "Heritage Biker" collection for this summer. After having brought together shearling and spidery lace - making up one of the more unexpected and fascinating looks of this season - today, Bailey is offering a collection that is much more commercial than inspired.

In addition, by choosing to take on the already overexploited biker theme, the designer found himself with no room to back up, obliged to offer a radically innovative interpretation in order to stay in the game.

However, by deciding to add leather jacket detailing to trench coats (e.g., gold-colored studs), Bailey took the easy way out (not to mention the leopard prints that have already seen their time pass, or even the skinny pants that, while very trendy with their biker details, come dangerously close to those by Isabel Marant).

What happened to the Burberry girl full of that chic, British nonchalance that Bailey knew how to dress so well? In her place, we find an army of jet setters addicted to sexiness and flashy leathers. What a pity...