Dries Van Noten - Spring/Summer 2011

In the same vein as his fall/winter 2010-2011 show, Dries Van Noten brings up once again the notion of modern elegance with a touch of casual chic. For his summer show, he also referred to a major abstract painter as well as the delicate Chinese ceramic motifs.

As he revealed backstage, it was more than anything else a response to the dominance of the skinny cut in the trends that Van Noten decided to create his new collection in oversize mode. As usual, the Belgian designer borrowed many pieces from the male wardrobe, this time accentuating a bit more their boyish look and oversizing their proportions, without depriving them of one ounce of their femininity.

Between the light-capturing colors - in homage to the works of Jef Verheyen (as seen here and here) - and the unusual harmonies of materials (especially iridescent fabrics), Van Noten succeeded in composing ensembles that are simultaneously effortless and subtly glamorous.

In other words, the smoking jackets, blazers, white shirts and wide pants present en masse on the catwalks avoided becoming too androgynous thanks to their luminous tints.

In addition, whereas the trend seems to be headed towards big swaths of Stabilo-florescent colors, Van Noten prefers to emphasize delicately pre-washed and nicely tie-dyed pastel colors that support the feeling of serenity emanating from the collection overall.

Whether it be via large flowers painted on precious silks, or volumes that never trespass into sexy, the Dries Van Noten woman is strong and dignified, insisting on quality and allergic to superficial sophistication.

The Van Noten wardrobe may be particularly chic and streamlined, but the simplest pieces - with their subtle colors and play on materials - succeed all the same in appearing unique, desirable and indispensable.

Also noteworthy: for the first time, Dries Van Noten has incorporated a touch of denim into his wardrobe. Usually known for his predilection for exceptional fabrics, he has in fact let himself be seduced by the elementary aura of the jean. As a result of the presence of several denim pieces, his collection overall attached itself a bit more in reality, offering women a prêt-a-porter that is simultaneously deceptively simple and essential.

Finally, the ultra wide-cut pant/mother-of-pearl sequined top duo has a strong chance of becoming integrated into the exclusive circle of next summer's must-have's.

Click here to view the entire collection: http://www.style.com/S2011RTW-DVNOTEN