Balenciaga - Spring/Summer 2011

By choosing to mix amateur and professional models (like Marc Jacobs did last winter), Nicolas Ghesquière came up with a casting that worked perfectly with his incisive collection, whose boyish sexiness was equaled only by the limitless modernity with which he handles of his inspirations.

Over the years, Ghesquière has focused more and more on the fabric, to the point that we wonder if the finished piece is nothing more than a support for his textile experiments. This being said, we cannot blame him - prêt-a-porter seems to have reached its limits, whereas fabric mutations have not yet revealed all their magic.

As is often the case, Ghesquière once again established two or three strong silhouettes on which he made variations according to his technical possibilities.

Ghesquière, who never wanted to give into the retro revival sirens, set about distilling a rock -- almost punk -- atmosphere throughout his spring/summer 2011 show. Just looking at the models' ultra short cuts - either bleached or dyed jet black - was enough to understand that once again, Balenciaga is staying clear of traditional glamour.

The young women pacing the parquet floors of the (Paris hotel) Crillon resembled Teddy Boy in Creepers ready to do battle with girliness. To open the show, Ghesquière enveloped her in a hounds tooth cocoon inspired by the Balenciaga heritage, brought into the 21st century by treating it in half-leather, half-plastic.

After a few entrances dedicated to variations on this model, the streetwear style so dear to Balenciaga's artistic director took on a more tailored look. The girls borrowed smoking jackets and white shirts from the men's wardrobe and wore them audaciously with leather shorts and Creepers. This was followed by straight Archean skirt/sleeveless pullover ensembles that were as chic as they come.

Following this, the boyish atmosphere of the show manifested itself through a succession of tailored and delicately worked biker jackets whose unclutteredness brilliantly accompanied the refinement of the ensembles that were decorated with a multitude of sequins.

We can only admire the capacity of the master of the house to make the latest technologies and Balenciaga hand stitching virtuosity come together on the same piece; e.g., the show's finale brought together neo-shirts cut by laser with skirts requiring hours of embroidery.

More wearable than usual, the Balenciaga wardrobe shines with its precision and the apropos of the creations. As for knowing which piece from the show will have the highest chance of winning over the fashion editors, it seems that the Balenciaga heritage watches brought back for summer 2011 are in the lead (as seen here and here).

Click here to view the entire collection: http://www.style.com/S2011RTW-BALENCIA