Chloé - Spring/Summer 2011

After having declared the fall/winter 2010-2011 color range, it does not seem like Hannah MacGibbon is ready to part with the beige palette that led to Chloé's entrance into the exclusive circle of the season's "it" labels. Dove and skin tones played major roles on her catwalk, and the 70s influences of her last collection faded away, revealing references to the world of dance.

Several years after Phoebe Philo's departure from Chloé, her assistant seems to still be evolving in symbiosis with her mentor, injecting (perhaps unconsciously) the kind of minimalist accents into her work that would probably please Céline's creative director. However, even if austerity is in full sail in the fashion world today, this does not mean that the bourgeois/bohemian chic nonchalance that is such an integral part of Chloé is being erased.

When the show opened on an immaculate, surgically minimalist coat, the thought that came to mind was that MacGibbon should perhaps use this minimalism (whose austerity can become a bit boring) a bit more sparingly.

This being said, as of the 6th catwalk entrance, the style lightened, offering a touch of levity (thanks to a long, pleated, transparent dance skirt) to the summer looks. Throughout the show, the looks alternated between très Calvin Klein chic ensembles and ballerina silhouettes.

These skirts will not have a problem making the transition from the Paris Opera Ballet rehearsal studios to the streets - cappuccino leotards, mocha petticoats and red slippers make up a look that is simultaneously spring-like and urban.

Also noteworthy: next to the clearly MacGibbon silhouettes (wide-cut leather shorts, skin-colored skirt/top ensembles and the wide-cut pants/tailored top duo), the designer introduced a new composition, consisting of a simple pair of shorts worn under evanescent petticoats or dresses that were generously slit in the middle.

In conclusion, though we may appreciate the pleats, leotards and the softness emanating from certain color harmonies, we find the collection lacking in the innovative twist that we expect to find from a house such as Chloé.

Click here to view the entire collection: http://www.style.com/S2011RTW-CHLOE