Chanel - Spring/Summer 2011

The Chanel winter iceberg melted away, revealing a sublime garden à la française. The fountains, white gravel, and majestic decor - a direct reference to the film Last Year at Marienbad (L'année dernière à Marienbad) - provided the setting for the 80 nonchalant, enchantingly graceful models presenting a Chanel collection abundant with new ideas.

Taking inspiration from the surrealist extravagance of Alain Resnais' film, Karl Lagerfeld worked his materials, giving his ultra chic ensembles a more mysterious aura. A veritable ode to the iconic Chanel silhouettes, the first pieces seemed to be made of wool that had been eaten by some sort of imaginary insect; later on, on another model, a delicate black knit seemed to be devouring light chiffon.

This season, Lagerfeld seems to have chosen to spend more time on the composition of his creations than on their volume. Rather than tear down the Chanel dress codes, he preferred to give them an overhaul à la sophisticated casual. Suits went without finishing details, feathers appeared in the guise of hems and lace was worn in all its transparency.

In the first part of the show, it was a collection full of freshness and references to youth that was presented under the arcades of the Grand Palais. Between micro shorts and customized jeans, the looks seemed to be made to measure for Lagerfeld's muses; i.e., it was very easy to imagine them being slipped on by the likes of Freja Beha or Elisa Sednaoui.

Following this, Chanel's creative director brought on one new idea after another at such a speed that it was easy to lose one's way. Flowered chiffons accompanied skinny leathers with a more rock (and slightly kitsch) feel; other pieces had touches that were half-Asian/half 19th century; and references to Armani were also included.

Intoxicated by this veritable stylistic logorrhea, the mind was suddenly given a respite with the appearance of the divine and radiant Inès de la Fressange, back at Chanel this season as the icon for the spring/summer 2011 collection. Then came looks that were inspired directly by those conceived of by Coco Chanel herself for the film Last Year at Marienbad, which closed the marathon show.

Offering a clever mix between high emotion (evoked by the presence of a philharmonic orchestra), excellent craftsmanship, a twist of youth and controlled excessiveness, Karl Lagerfeld proves once again (to those who might have had any doubts) that he is still the master of the game.

Click here to view the entire collection: http://www.style.com/S2011RTW-CHANEL