Chanel - The Paris-Byzance Show

While we may complain about the furious pace of the collections, we would not want to do without the Chanel "craftsman" shows that for the last 10 years have shown us how much French artisan know-how can coincide with genius.

Karl Lagerfeld seems to like nothing better than to change directions. After having taken over the arcades of the Grand Palais last October, today he chose the intimacy of the rue Cambon salons to present his "Paris-Byzance" collection.

He transformed one of the second floor rooms of Chanel's house into an oriental boudoir, in which the très selecte invited guests were able to admire the copper sequined walls and mosaic coffee tables before taking their places on the comfortable seats decorated with gold cushions.

On the program: a submersion into the splendor of Byzantium, with the Empress Théodora, who in the 6th century went from being a circus artist to taking over the highest echelon of power, as the central figure. A destiny such as hers, strangely similar to that of Coco Chanel, surely did not escape Lagerfeld's attention.

Between the splendor of the Byzantine court and the references to the bohemian 60s of London, the collection was incredibly luxurious, yet prêt-a-porter. Wearing full chignons on top of their heads held in place with precious headbands, the models were either dressed in dark finery brightened up with the famous Gripoix jewelry so dear to Coco Chanel, or in sublimely crafted creations in homage to the ancient Greek city.

On the catwalk, each passage showed off the knowledge of the French artisan ateliers - ateliers that Chanel purchases without hesitation when necessary. It is partly thanks to Chanel that we can still appreciate the subtle work of Lesage, the sublime thigh boots of Massaro, or the head decorations by the house of Michel.

Between the Byzantine mosaic colors, the bronze tweeds with Ottoman influences, costume cabochons, gold covered Chanel classics, evanescent chiffons evoking the charm of Persian tales, slightly hippie 60s folklore (that unfortunately did not always flatter), the Paris-Byzantium voyage was, in the end, full of passion.

At a time when the house of Chanel seems more than ever (via its artistic director) attracted to the idea of golden youth and the lights of showbiz, it is good to seem them actively participate in the preservation of a heritage that sometimes seems to be on the verge of extinction.

Houses showcased during the show: Lesage (embroiderer), Lemarié (feather worker), Michel (milliner), Goossens (silversmith/goldsmith), Guillet (artificial flowers), Desrues (finery maker), Massaro (boot maker)

Click here to view the collection: http://www.style.com/2011PF-CHANEL